Редакция tsum.ru рассказывает о женщинах-дизайнерах, чьи коллекции меняли и меняют прямо сейчас индустрию моды.
Новости и события
5 марта
POWER OF WOMEN: 4 ВЫДАЮЩИХСЯ ЖЕНЩИН-ДИЗАЙНЕРОВ
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Сара БЕртон
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Придя на третьем курсе Saint Martins на стажировку к Александру Маккуину, Сара Бертон осталась с ним на 14 долгих лет. И после смерти дизайнера в 2010 году возглавила Дом его имени. Маккуин на тот момент уже был легендой, поэтому сложно представить, какой груз ответственности в одночасье рухнул на плечи британки. Сперва она закончила коллекцию Маккуина Angels and Demons, которую тот не успел довести до конца, а спустя всего полгода представила и первую собственную. Стиль Alexander McQueen в эпоху правления Бертон, безусловно, изменился. Каждая коллекция самого Маккуина была отдельным концептуальным высказыванием, коллекции же Бертон — продолжающаяся ода мастерству британских ремесленников, местной природе и мистическим традициям. Мрачная романтика в духе Эмили Бронте нашла своих поклонников: в их числе и герцогиня Кембриджская Кейт Миддлтон, для которой команда Alexander McQueen создала свадебное платье.
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стелла маккартни
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Стеллу Маккартни по-настоящему заботили вопросы устойчивого развития задолго до того, как слово sustainability стало мелькать во всех продвинутых медиа. С самого начала Стелла Маккартни не использовала натуральный мех в своих коллекциях, а уже чуть позже исключила шелк, кашемир и шерсть, полученные классическим способом, и заменила их на щадящие для природы и окружающей среды варианты. В 2018 году дизайнер Стелла Маккартни заслуженно возглавила инициативу ООН по борьбе с экологической и климатической деградацией, вызванной индустрией моды.
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Габриэла Херст
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Американский дизайнер Габриэла Херст, возглавляющая одноименный бренд с 2015 года, в 2020 году была назначена на пост креативного директора Chloé. Дебютное шоу Херст модная публика увидела на днях. К истории Chloé Габриэла отнеслась со всей любовью: в ее коллекции можно почувствовать настроение 1970-х, узнаваемую бохо-романтику бренда, плиссировку и даже английскую вышивку. С нетерпением ждем в ЦУМе.
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Донателла Версаче
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Донателла Версаче возглавила фамильный итальянский Дом в непростое время — сразу после смерти ее старшего брата Джанни. При жизни брата она занималась пиаром и была, по собственным словам, его музой и первым критиком, теперь объектом критики и пристального внимания предстояло стать ей самой. Показ ее первой коллекции Versace Atelier состоялся спустя год после трагических событий. Дом Versace в ее руках рос и развивался, захватывая все новые территории, а дочерняя линия Versus превратилась в экспериментальную площадку: давая молодым дизайнерам свободу делать на ее основе все, что душе угодно, Донателла Версаче помогла карьерам Джонатана Андерсона и Энтони Ваккарелло. Пару сезонов назад она решила изменить эстетику Дома, вернувшись к истокам. Пиковой точкой этого возвращения стала яркая коллекция, целиком посвященная Джанни Версаче и архивам его работ.
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Фото: Архив пресс-служб
Фото: Shutterstock/FOTODOM
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Редакция tsum.ru рассказывает о женщинах-дизайнерах, чьи коллекции меняли и меняют прямо сейчас индустрию моды.
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Сара БЕртон
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Придя на третьем курсе Saint Martins на стажировку к Александру Маккуину, Сара Бертон осталась с ним на 14 долгих лет. И после смерти дизайнера в 2010 году возглавила Дом его имени. Маккуин на тот момент уже был легендой, поэтому сложно представить, какой груз ответственности в одночасье рухнул на плечи британки. Сперва она закончила коллекцию Маккуина Angels and Demons, которую тот не успел довести до конца, а спустя всего полгода представила и первую собственную. Стиль Alexander McQueen в эпоху правления Бертон, безусловно, изменился. Каждая коллекция самого Маккуина была отдельным концептуальным высказыванием, коллекции же Бертон — продолжающаяся ода мастерству британских ремесленников, местной природе и мистическим традициям. Мрачная романтика в духе Эмили Бронте нашла своих поклонников: в их числе и герцогиня Кембриджская Кейт Миддлтон, для которой команда Alexander McQueen создала свадебное платье.
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стелла маккартни
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Стеллу Маккартни по-настоящему заботили вопросы устойчивого развития задолго до того, как слово sustainability стало мелькать во всех продвинутых медиа. С самого начала Стелла Маккартни не использовала натуральный мех в своих коллекциях, а уже чуть позже исключила шелк, кашемир и шерсть, полученные классическим способом, и заменила их на щадящие для природы и окружающей среды варианты. В 2018 году дизайнер Стелла Маккартни заслуженно возглавила инициативу ООН по борьбе с экологической и климатической деградацией, вызванной индустрией моды.
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Донателла Версаче
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Донателла Версаче возглавила фамильный итальянский Дом в непростое время — сразу после смерти ее старшего брата Джанни. При жизни брата она занималась пиаром и была, по собственным словам, его музой и первым критиком, теперь объектом критики и пристального внимания предстояло стать ей самой. Показ ее первой коллекции Versace Atelier состоялся спустя год после трагических событий. Дом Versace в ее руках рос и развивался, захватывая все новые территории, а дочерняя линия Versus превратилась в экспериментальную площадку: давая молодым дизайнерам свободу делать на ее основе все, что душе угодно, Донателла Версаче помогла карьерам Джонатана Андерсона и Энтони Ваккарелло. Пару сезонов назад она решила изменить эстетику Дома, вернувшись к истокам. Пиковой точкой этого возвращения стала яркая коллекция, целиком посвященная Джанни Версаче и архивам его работ.
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Фото: Архив пресс-служб
Фото: Shutterstock/FOTODOM
