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Новости и события

Не только музы: пять женщин-дизайнеров
T

Редакция tsum.ru рассказывает о женщинах-дизайнерах, чьи коллекции меняли и меняют прямо сейчас индустрию моды. 

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Сара БЕртон

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Придя на третьем курсе Saint Martins на стажировку к Александру Маккуину, Сара Бертон осталась с ним на 14 долгих лет. И после смерти дизайнера в 2010 году возглавила Дом его имени. Маккуин на тот момент уже был легендой, поэтому сложно представить, какой груз ответственности в одночасье рухнул на плечи британки. Сперва она закончила коллекцию Маккуина Angels and Demons, которую тот не успел довести до конца, а спустя всего полгода представила и первую собственную. Стиль Alexander McQueen в эпоху правления Бертон, безусловно, изменился. Каждая коллекция самого Маккуина была отдельным концептуальным высказыванием, коллекции же Бертон — продолжающаяся ода мастерству британских ремесленников, местной природе и мистическим традициям. Мрачная романтика в духе Эмили Бронте нашла своих поклонников: в их числе и герцогиня Кембриджская Кейт Миддлтон, для которой команда Alexander McQueen создала свадебное платье.

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Alexander McQueen 

Кожаная куртка

279 500 ₽

Alexander McQueen 

Сумка Box 19

125 500 ₽

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Alexander McQueen 

Шелковое платье

168 000 ₽

Alexander McQueen 

Кожаные байкеры

87 500 ₽

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Alexander McQueen 

Приталенный жакет

160 500 ₽

Alexander McQueen 

Приталенное платье

138 500 ₽

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Alexander McQueen 

Вязаная мини-юбка

64 450 ₽

Alexander McQueen 

Замшевые босоножки

48 300 ₽

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Клэр Уэйт Келлер

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Послужной список Клэр Уэйт Келлер впечатляет: до того, как возглавить Chloé, она успела отметиться в Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Gucci и Pringle of Scotland. Но именно французский Дом, специализирующийся на лиричной женственности в духе 70-х, принес дизайнеру настоящую славу. В его стенах она трудилась шесть лет, а в марте прошлого года официально — и неожиданно для всех — перешла в Givenchy, став первой женщиной на посту креативного директора этого заслуженного Дома. Премьерную весенне-летнюю коллекцию она представила в октябре, а свой первый показ haute couture — в начале 2018-го. И доказала, что сильна не только в романтике и загородном шике, которые были важны для Chloé, но и в power dressing с элементами уличной моды и традиционного мужского костюма.

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Givenchy 

Джинсовая куртка

69 050 ₽

Givenchy 

Хлопковая футболка

27 200 ₽

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Givenchy 

Мини-юбка

31 400 ₽

Givenchy 

Резиновые сапоги

27 850 ₽

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Givenchy 

Сумка Antigona

89 950 ₽

Givenchy 

Парка

118 000 ₽

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Givenchy 

Джинсы-скинни

41 150 ₽

Givenchy 

Хлопковый свитшот

41 150 ₽

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Наташа Рамсей-Леви

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Наташа Рамсей-Леви пришла в моду благодаря Николя Гескьеру, влюбившись в образ, созданный им для Balenciaga. «Я хотела быть ровно такой девушкой: молодой, классной, андрогинной», — рассказывает она сама. Гескьер тоже влюбился в Рамсей-Леви — конечно, платонически. И они стали работать вместе: от девушки, подающей кофе в его студии, она доросла до дизайн-директора, и вместе с Гескьером перешла на ту же должность в другой большой бренд. А в прошлом году отправилась в самостоятельное плавание, возглавив Chloé. Уже по первым двум ее коллекциям для бренда стало ясно, что образ героини Chloé изменился: к французскому шику и романтизму добавились резкость, графичность и некоторая андрогинность — заимствования из мужского стиля в женскую одежду Рамсей-Леви вплетает мастерски.

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Chloé  

Пуловер

59 350 ₽

Chloé  

Сумка Nile

94 050 ₽

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Chloé  

Расклешенные брюки

55 150 ₽

Chloé  

Лаковые туфли

31 200 ₽


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Chloé  

Сумка Small Pixie

82 900 ₽

Chloé  

Полупрозрачная юбка

136 000 ₽

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Chloé  

Шерстяной пуловер

52 350 ₽

Chloé  

Шелковая блуза

73 300 ₽


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Сильвия Вентурини Фенди

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История Fendi — вполне традиционная для итальянской моды: компанию основали еще в 1925 году Эдуардо и Адель Фенди, а их дети и внуки ее унаследовали. Сильвия Вентурини Фенди — из третьего поколения семьи, и она единственная из всех пяти внуков ее основателей до сих пор занимается делами компании — возглавляет подразделения аксессуаров и мужской одежды, в то время как за женскую линию и кутюр отвечает Карл Лагерфельд. С ним Сильвия познакомилась, когда ей было всего лишь пять — он уже тогда стал креативным директором женской линии и работает с ней до сих пор. Но главную героиню всех коллекций Fendi, знаменитую Baguette Bag, пережившую уже сотни перевоплощений, придумала именно Сильвия Вентурини Фенди, и она стала первой сумкой, ради возможности купить которую люди записывались в листы ожидания.

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FENDI

Куртка

120 000 ₽

FENDI

Кроссовки

45 000 ₽

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FENDI 

Хлопковая футболка

56 950 ₽

FENDI 

Сумка Runaway

109 000 ₽


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FENDI

Сумка Kan I

106 500 ₽

FENDI 

Шерстяной свитер

61 950 ₽

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FENDI 

Джинсовая куртка

89 950 ₽

FENDI

Джинсы

75 650 ₽


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Донателла Версаче

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Донателла Версаче возглавила фамильный итальянский Дом в непростое время — сразу после смерти ее старшего брата Джанни. При жизни брата она занималась пиаром и была, по собственным словам, его музой и первым критиком, теперь объектом критики и пристального внимания предстояло стать ей самой. Показ ее первой коллекции Versace Atelier состоялся спустя год после трагических событий. Дом Versace в ее руках рос и развивался, захватывая все новые территории, а дочерняя линия Versus превратилась в экспериментальную площадку: давая молодым дизайнерам свободу делать на ее основе все, что душе угодно, Донателла Версаче помогла карьерам Джонатана Андерсона и Энтони Ваккарелло. Пару сезонов назад она решила изменить эстетику Дома, вернувшись к истокам. Пиковой точкой этого возвращения стала яркая коллекция, целиком посвященная Джанни Версаче и архивам его работ.



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VERSACE

Сумка Palazzo Empire

118 500 ₽

VERSACE

Приталенное пальто

128 500 ₽

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VERSACE

Шелковый топ

37 150 ₽


VERSACE

Джинсы

56 050 ₽

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VERSACE

Шелковое платье

87 700 ₽

VERSACE

Кожаные туфли

89 950 ₽

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VERSACE

Шелковая блуза

83 150 ₽


VERSACE

Шерстяные брюки 

34 000 ₽


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